There was a time when the CG (Curly Girl) method was the number one styling technique for those with curly hair and today, it’s still a popular option. With a set of specific rules that aim to achieve full, healthy, and defined curls, commitment to the process can turn your hair from limp to luscious.
Thinking of trying the curly girl method? Here’s a comprehensible guide to CG method for beginners that will help you start a curly hair journey, as well as address the most common pitfalls.
What Is the Curly Girl Method?
The Curly Girl Method was created by Lorraine Massey in 2001 and described in her bestselling book Curly Girl: The Handbook. The method is especially devised for those struggling to look after their curls. It’s a complete hair care overhaul. The core of the book focuses on trading damaging hair habits for healthier alternatives – there is a long list of recommendations set out by Lorraine here.
Who Is the Curly Girl Method For?
The system is based on the idea of setting curly hair free. It’s good for anyone trying to repair damaged hair and those who want to truly dedicate some energy to changing their hair habits. It’s a great starting point for curly hair beginners too. Even if you think your hair is frizzy rather than curly, you’ll be surprised as Lorraine Massey says, “frizz is just a curl waiting to happen.” Needless to say, it’s never too late to start discovering your natural hair texture.
Basic CG Method Rules
The CG method focuses on trading damaging hair habits for healthier alternatives. The actual routine itself covers five main steps but there are quite a few don’ts that you need to remember:
- Only use sulphate-free shampoo. Sulphates are a big no-no as they strip natural oils and are too harsh on delicate curls. You should only use them during your first shampoo, to completely strip your hair and provide a clean foundation. From then on, you can use a co-wash or sulphate-free shampoo to cleanse your scalp. If you accidentally use a sulphate or silicone shampoo, you must reset your scalp with a clarifying shampoo.
- Avoid using heat on your curls. Straighteners, curlers, and hairdryers tend to create frizz. Only using a diffuser in a cool setting is okay. Ideally, dry your hair using the plopping method with a cotton t-shirt or a microfiber towel.
- Swap brushes and combs for your hands. When you need to detangle and style your curls, do it when your curls are soaking wet and only use your hair. This will avoid any unnecessary damage or pressure.
- Only use products that are Curly Girl friendly. Avoid products that contain sulphates, alcohol, or silicone. These tend to dry out natural curls and stop them from looking healthy and full.
How to Wash Your Hair Following the Curly Girl Method?
Now on to the wash day routine. If you find that your current wash day takes far too long, following the CGM might be a simpler and more effective way of looking after your curls.
Here’s what to do:
1. Reset Your Curls
First, you need to reset your curls with a clarifying shampoo. In this case, sulfates are also okay as they can cut through heavy oils and products that may leave build-up on the hair. This step will cleanse your hair of any impurities.
2. Cleanse with a Sulphate-Free Shampoo
Using a conditioning shampoo or sulfate-free shampoo, massage your scalp with your fingers (not your nails), then rinse. Wash wavy hair every 7-10 days, for curly and coily hair – opt for even longer periods between the washes.
3. Condition your curls
Follow up with a conditioner for curly hair and use it on the bottom half of your hair while gently detangling it with your fingers. Since brushes aren’t allowed, detangling in the shower can make it easier to remove knots. Once your curls are tangle-free, rinse 90% of the conditioner out of your hair.
4. Style using gel or cream
Again, use products that are free from silicones, alcohol, and sulphates. Gel is a popular choice that’s applied when the hair is still wet by raking it through and scrunching the ends, making sure each section is covered.
5. Dry your curls
To dry your hair, use a microfiber towel or t-shirt to ‘plop’ your curls as traditional towels can be too damaging. Gently squeeze out any excess moisture and let your hair dry. If you’ve applied gel, gently scrunch your curls to break the cast and release your defined curls. If you have to use heat, choose a cool setting and use a diffuser.
Does the Curly Girl Method Work for Everyone?
Not everyone sees success with the Curly Girl Method. If you’re not seeing the results you’d like, the first thing to check is the products you’re using as following this method requires you to pay close attention to the ingredients. It may be that you’re unknowingly still using sulphates or silicones which are stopping your curls from flourishing.
Or, perhaps you need to modify the curly girl method to work with your hair’s needs. You know your hair best after all! Everyone’s hair is different so pick the rules that apply to you and don’t get too caught up in following everything 100%.
Why Isn’t the Curly Girl Method Working?
It takes time to see results from a new hair routine. But if you’re still struggling to get to grips with the CG method, there could be several reasons why, such as:
- Your hair is still recovering from damage. For example, if you’re transitioning from relaxed to natural hair and your curls are recovering from chemical damage, you need to address this first. Any kind of damage causes trauma to the hair. In some cases, trimming these areas and dedicating the time to creating a healthy foundation is best.
- You need to use a brush to define your curls. Since the method doesn’t encourage the use of brushes, this can affect the type of curl definition you achieve. Some of the best brushes for curly hair like the Denman brush, can define yours in ways that your hands can’t. Adding a brush back into your routine could be the answer.
- You haven’t found the right products. With so many products on the market, restricting what you use may be preventing you from finding a cream or gel you love. In moderation, silicones are usually fine — they can actually prevent frizz! Be mindful of what you’re using but also be open-minded to the fact your curls might love a particular product.
- Your hair needs more moisture. Curly hair tends to be dry, especially if you have afro hair. This is because a tight curl pattern makes it hard for sebum to make its way down the hair shaft and with no mention of hair oils in the Curly Girl method, your hair might be crying out for more moisture. Try incorporating more moisture-rich products into your routine as quenched curls look and feel much better!
The curly girl method can work wonders for your hair. Give it a go today and don’t be afraid to modify it a little to get the very best out of your natural curls!
Featured image via @frisorheidimarquart
